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If Isabella Rossellini owned a restaurant, it would look a lot like Cecconi’s: aesthetically well-mannered without having to shout about it. A reliable city stager that sings from the posh-Italian songbook, Cecconi’s is the kind of place that makes you feel good – and we’re not just talking about the wine list (a sexy, sinuous Italian thing), the service (ditto) or the comfortable spacing between the linen clad tables. Run by the legendary Bortolotto family using produce from their Victorian farm, it nails the business-crowd brief with a confident menu of value-added Italian-ness: pancetta-wrapped quail with vincotto, excellent calamari fritti that arrives with salsa verde and aioli or slow-cooked Wagyu brisket with pureed white beans and red wine jus.